Monday 18 May 2015

Castillo de Mandl: affordable luxury in the Sierras of Córdoba

In my previous post I mentioned that I would write about Castillo de Mandl, a hotel in the delightful town of La Cumbre in the Sierras of Córdoba. 

If you want a few days of complete relaxation, soaking up the ambience of the Sierras, or a base for a more action-packed break, El Castillo is an enchanting and very reasonably-priced spot. Thank you, Alistair, for treating us to some luxury after the hair-pulling experience we encountered upon our arrival to Córdoba.
Bliss!
Castillo, on a hilltop just outside La Cumbre town centre, is every bit a castle as the name suggests. While the gravelly, potholed path was a bit of an effort in our Renault Clio, the arched pathway was a nice welcome to our temporary home.

The view from within and of the surrounding countryside was magical. With the magnificent windows adorning the dining/living room; plush sofas, beautiful antique furniture; and bright and airy bedrooms, you know grandeur when you see it.  

A grand history

And this is not just on appearances alone; the history of the Castillo is pretty grand too. It was originally built as a summer home in 1930 by Bartolomé Vasallo, a doctor from Roasario, and soon became an architectural feature in La Cumbre. He donated the castle to the town of La Cumbre, which then auctioned it owing to the high maintenance costs.

By virtue of the new owner, Friedrich Mandl, Castillo was completely remodelled. The interiors was furnished by the French designer Jean Michel Frank, regarded as one of the most influential designers in the 1930s. From the outside, the turrets were removed to make the Castillo look more like a residence and less obviously like a castle. 

Fritz Mandl, an Austrian arms dealer, was quite the character. He arrived in Argentina as a refugee in 1938, following the expropriation of his property when Austria was annexed by Nazi Germany. Mendl, a prominent fascist and admirer of Mussolini, became an eminent member of Argentine society. He was an advisor to Juan Peron and tried his hand as a film producer, among other careers. If that wasn't enough, his second wife (out of five) was the Austrian, and later Hollywood, actress Hedy Lamarr.

Upon his death in Vienna in 1977, the Castillo was closed and only reopened to the public 30 years later. 

Space, glorious space

Set in grounds of around 11 hectares and with just 13 rooms, we had all the space, and peace and quiet, to do as little or as much as we pleased.

Transportation: I would definitely recommend hiring a car if you plan to visit nearby sites, to see the sun setting over the mountains or just for a bit of an adventure over the rugged mountainous roads.      
Heaven on Earth


Nearby attractions: Apart from the beautiful scenery, there is a good amount of things to do and see, including:
  • Hand-gliding - We weren't brave enough but La Cumbre is famous for hand-gliding experiences. Whether or not you decide to give it a go, the view from Cerro Mirador, the launch pad, is worth a trip in itself.
  • Jesuit estancias - Providing you have a car, the Jesuit estancia trail is well worth a visit, offering a glimpse into some of the earliest settlements in Argentina. Estancia Santa Catalina is probably the prettiest, while Jesús María is the best preserved.
  • Hikes - Climb the steps up to Cristo Redentor and carry on to Dique San Jerónimo, the first arched dam built in South America in 1942. On the way back, you'll walk past Estancia El Rosario, which was originally part of Estancia Santa Catalina, but has been producing artesanal foods since 1924. The route is not sign-posted but Castillo will give you a map.       

Rates: We went off-season, at the end of April, and paid roughly £65 (just over AR$1000) for a double room, including breakfast.They also provide dinner (at an additional cost) and cater for all requirements, including our nightmare celiac and vegetarian combo.
Who said you have to pay the earth for a bit of luxury…




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